Hand building ceramics: DIY clay planters – this is a great project for clay to fire or air-dry clay, here’s how to do it!
NOTE: These have not been glazed yet!
NOTE 2: Yes, you can use air-dry clay for this project, but you’ll need to use a liner or smaller planter to insert inside.
Hand building ceramics: How to make clay planters
There’s something extra special about making your own clay planter—especially when it’s hand-built with your own energy, design, and style. In this DIY, I’ll show you how to roll out clay, add texture, and assemble a cute, functional planter.
This version features a cactus-themed rolling pin.
NOTE: Scroll down at the bottom to see the air-dry clay method!
Supplies:
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Clay (earthenware or stoneware works great—cone 04-06) or air-dry clay
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Rolling pin (plus a textured one, like cactus print!)
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12″x4″ rectangle template from card stock(for the wall)
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4″ round template from card stock(for the bottom)
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Slip (clay + water mixture)
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Sponge and water
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Plastic tumbler (4″ diameter) to shape and support the planter as it dries
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Optional: underglaze or glaze for finishing (this will be another post)
- Spray bottle (optional)
Instructions
Roll the clay
Roll your clay slab to about ¼” thick using a standard rolling pin or slab roller. Try to keep the thickness even throughout to avoid cracks later on.
Add texture
Firmly but carefully, roll your cactus-themed rolling pin across the slab to press in your design. Apply even pressure so the texture comes out clear but doesn’t distort the slab.
Cut your shapes
Use the card stock temple, a ruler and craft knife to cut a 12″x4″ rectangle—this will be the body of your planter.
For the bottom: Then cut a 4″ circle using a round template (a lid or bowl works well if you don’t have a stencil). Make sure to cut a hole in the bottom for drainage. Smooth the edges.
Form the cylinder
Gently wrap the rectangle into a cylinder shape, overlapping the ends slightly. Score both ends with your scoring tool or fork, then add slip and press together to seal the seam. Smooth the join with the sculpting tool, your finger or a damp sponge.
Attaching the bottom
Score the edges of the round base and the bottom rim of your cylinder. Add slip and carefully attach the two, pressing gently to seal. Use a damp sponge to smooth and reinforce the seam.
Clean up the edges
Use the sculpting tool to smooth all the edges.
Add rolled clay inside
This is so important to prevent leakage and molding. Roll out a strip of clay. Moisten the planter’s seams inside and drop in the rolled clay. Use the sculpting tool to blend the rolled clay to the bottom and sides of the planter. Keep smoothing until you can’t see any lines, perfectly seamless!
Shape and support
To help your planter keep its shape while drying, insert a 4″ plastic tumbler into the cylinder. This keeps it nice and round and supports the walls as the clay firms up. Only leave it for about 20 minutes, then remove.
Let it dry
Let the clay dry slowly and evenly, covering it loosely with plastic for the first day or two to avoid cracking. Once it’s fully dry and leather hard, remove the tumbler.
Fire and finish
Bisque fire according to your clay’s specs, usually cone 04 for low fire. Then you can glaze or underglaze the planter however you’d like—have fun with bold colors or a clear glaze to let that cactus texture shine!
NOTE: After firing, these will need to be glazed and fired again!
Air-dry clay method
Do all of this (except adding the hole at the bottom), but don’t fire it. Let it dry fully, then use craft paint and sealer. You can’t use it for an actual plant, but you can insert a smaller planter with a plant.
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