Here is how to make gold gilded frames – using guess what? Sandwich foil!
The Phoenix Art Museum has a Renaissance and Baroque exhibit and asked me to host a related make-and-take craft for First Fridays. There are many variations, but I went this route because we will have 300 people come through a three-hour time period.
This project is so fun and fabulous, I hope you give it a try!
If you love heavy, ornate gold frames, here’s a way to recreate the look with items you might already have in your kitchen and craft closet.
I call this the “Sandwich Foil Hack.” By combining gold sandwich foil and sticky-back craft foam, you can create a gorgeous, embossed texture that mimics expensive gilt-wood frames for just a few dollars.
OMG. Let’s get into it!

SUPPLIES for how to make gold gilded frames:
Traditional gold leaf is beautiful, but it’s thin, fragile, and gets everywhere. Sandwich foil is the secret weapon here because the paper backing gives it body. When you press it over the foam shapes, it holds its form perfectly, creating those deep, dramatic shadows that make a frame look truly old-world.
Glue stick
Cotton swab
Scissors
Black paint (optional)

Directions:
Video tutorial of gilded frames
Take one sheet of the sandwich foil and smooth it out, free of heavy wrinkles.
Cut the sheet into strips wide enough to cover the front of the frame.

Apply glue stick to one side of the frame, as well as the edge.
Carefully apply the strip of sandwich foil, smooth out, and trim excess.

Repeat until the frame is covered with one layer of foil.
Add layers.
Cut pieces of craft foam to go around the frame, but do not apply them yet.
Take one piece of cut craft foam, peel the backing and place it where you desire.

Cut a piece of foil just big enough to cover the craft foam you just placed.
Coat the top and side of the craft foam with the glue stick, as well as around the edges.
Place the foil on the glue and carefully press in place. Use a cotton swab to go around the curves to add definition.
The magic happens when you burnish. As you rub the foil over the foam “reliefs” we created, you’ll see the frame transform from a flat piece of wood into something sculptural. It’s incredibly satisfying to see those wavy lines and borders pop through the gold!

Finish up!
Continue adding layers, working section by section.
When finished, go through the frame and look for any foil that needs to be sealed down.

OPTIONAL: Add a layer of black craft paint, let dry and remove with a dam paper towel or wipe.

RELATED:
How to make a foil embossed wood heart
DIY charm necklace using gold milagros
How to use your frames!
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Gallery Walls: Mix different foam patterns to create a “collected over time” look.
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Eclectic Gifting: Pop a dried flower or a vintage postcard inside for a thoughtful, handmade gift.
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Moody Decor: The black foam underneath adds a subtle depth to the gold that looks stunning under warm lamplight.
- Party time: Favors for a wedding. Host a craft night!

Helpful tips:
1. The “Soft Burnish” Technique
Instead of using your bare fingernails (which can scratch the gold coating off the foil), use a soft microfiber cloth or a cotton swab.
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Rub in circular motions around the edges of your foam shapes.
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This “shrinks” the foil tightly against the foam, making it look like cast metal rather than paper stuck on top.
2. Avoid “Ghosting” Seams
When you need to use multiple sheets of foil to cover a large frame:
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Tear, don’t cut: Gently tear the edge of the foil that will be overlapping another piece. A torn, feathered edge hides the seam much better than a sharp, straight scissor cut.
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Overlap slightly: Always overlap by about 1/8th of an inch and burnish the seam flat until it disappears into the texture.
3. Use the “Dull Pencil” Detailer
For the tight corners where the foam meets the wood:
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Use a dull pencil or a wooden embossing stylus.
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Trace the outline of your foam shapes through the foil. This creates a deep “recess” that mimics the look of hand-carved wood.
4. Create an “Antique Patina”
If the gold feels a bit too bright or “new,” you can age it instantly:
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After the glue is dry, take a tiny bit of black or burnt umber acrylic paint on a damp paper towel.
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Wipe it over the frame, then immediately wipe most of it off with a clean cloth.
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The dark paint will stay in the “valleys” around your foam shapes, giving it an authentic, aged depth.
5. Prevent “Foil Lifting”
Glue sticks can sometimes dry too quickly or lose their grip on the edges:
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The Double-Coat: Apply the glue stick to the wood and a light layer to the paper-back side of the foil. This “contact cement” style bond is much stronger.
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Seal the back: Once you wrap the foil around to the back of the frame, use a piece of masking tape or a thin bead of tacky glue to ensure those edges never peel up.
6. The “Foam Sandwich” Trick
If you want a frame with a very high profile:
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Stack two layers of the sticky-back foam on top of each other before foiling.
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This creates a “3D” effect that looks like heavy plaster molding once the gold is applied.








